Cliff's Restaurant
10740 NW 7th Ave.
North Miami
305-754-2679
This cluttered roadside room contains some tables scattered about and a counter with stools in front and hand-printed signs behind it touting assorted breakfast, lunch, and dinner specials. Cliff's seems left over from another era, and so do the prices. For $5.50 you can get a lunch of jerk chicken, pork chops, cow foot, or any number of West Indian specialties, served with red-bean-studded rice, steamed cabbage, fried plantains, and fruit punch or lemonade. If you know of a better deal in town, please clue us in. Other bargains include six pieces of crunchy fried chicken with French fries for $5.00, and a breakfast special of yam, banana dumpling, and callaloo for $6.50. Of course these deals wouldn't be nearly as impressive if the food weren't so lip-smackingly tasty. Worth the trip alone is curry goat, with soft morsels of dark meat adrift in an emerald green sauce whose ginger-mustard-masala mix kicks in full flavor. Barbecue is worthy as well, and a black smoker on the side of the restaurant is piled with chicken, ribs, and pork. Whether slathered with barbecue sauce or jumped with jerk seasonings, the meats are absolutely imbued with full, slow-smoked flavor. Cliff's caters weddings and such, and also throws a pretty good party of its own come weekend evenings, when island tunes waft through the air and dancing fills the streets (or at least the adjoining lot).
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