At Talde, the new Asian-American restaurant inside the Confidante Hotel, the chef and his crew — which includes executive chef Jeanine Denetdeel from Talde Brooklyn — dont take themselves too seriously. In fact, they want customers to know it's OK to let loose. To facilitate that, they have the underground-club vibe down pat — from the excessively dim lighting to the walls covered with graffiti by Brooklyn artist Mr. EwokOne to a playlist Chef Talde refers to as "baby-making music." So grab a seat and start with an order of kung pao chicken wings. Talde's version consists of Szechuan peppercorns, chilies, peanuts, cilantro, and a splash of sweet chili sauce. The result? Incredibly crisp, finger-licking wings that are addictive. Also good are the short ribs and the whole roasted branzino. At the bar, there's a lighted sign in Dutch that translates to "Unity makes strength." The saying is borrowed from the Brooklyn flag, and it befits a restaurant with such a cohesive ethos: Serve proudly inauthentic Asian-American cuisine in a convivial and hip setting.
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