If you’re not used to the searing heat of Thai spice, ask for Lung Yai Thai Tapas’ lab e-sarn — a chilled ground-pork salad spiked with hefty doses of cumin, chilies, and star anise. It’s one of a number of recipes chef/owner Bas Trisransi revived after learning at his grandfather’s side decades ago. Bas knows that the development of deep, complex flavors can’t be rushed. This is quality Thai food that’s both affordable and casual, and the tapas style will rightly tempt diners to sample everything on the menu. A meal at Lung Yai is a crash course for the palate — and the Michelin Guide took note, awarding the restaurant a Bib Gourmand designation in 2022.